A French tradition, with roots in Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire, has led to an improvisational and elastic vision for salad that was born fully in the USA.
The sweet, custardy spread isn’t just a signature of Southeast Asian coffee shops—it’s an ice cream base, a cake filling, and an accompaniment for cheese.
Photographer Clay Williams and chef Chad Williams ask: Why are Philadelphia diners and restaurant critics so quick to undervalue the work of Black chefs?